The photo above is taken perhaps ten minutes away from the train station (which we moved through quite comfortably, by the way, none of the criminal horrors we'd been warned against, although I've no doubt pickpockets operate there, as in all train stations). Paul was so struck by this scene of makeshift market stalls that stretch for blocks and blocks that he wanted me to take a photo. I suggested that might mark us too conspicuously as tourists, but handed him my iPhone -- that's me in black backpack, cuffed jeans, puffer jacket, walking away from the snap-happy man. If you knew him, you'd know how unlikely a description that is of the man, but he was really struck by this scene -- and yes, he was more discreet than I'm suggesting.
Someone was quickly indifferent
And I must say, this is a great example of when travel research pays off. You would be hard-pressed to somehow discover this place by random, serendipitous walking. And even if you did somehow end up here, there's very little that would prompt you -- visually, at least -- to slow down. With a good nose, though, perhaps you could find your way here from the train station. . .
And if there were tourists in the crowd, they were Italian tourists. I don't think we heard any English on these streets all afternoon, excepting our own.